Garnet
- January Birthstone
If you are loyal,
devoted and energetic, then perhaps the garnet is your stone. Red garnets
were believed to promote sincerity, stop hemorrhaging or other loss of
blood, cure inflammatory diseases, and cure anger and discord. And if
you engraved a well-formed lion image upon it, it will protect and preserve
honors and health, cure the wearer of all disease, bring him honors, and
guard him from all perils in traveling. All in all, quite a worthwhile
stone.
A hard, durable,
often very brilliant stone, available in many colors of greens, reds,
yellows and oranges, it affords versatility and opportunity for adorning
jewelry.
Garnets are also a
deceptive stone. Some red shades appear like rubies, some greens like
emeralds, and some yellows for topaz.
Garnets can be found
in every color except blue. It is best known in a deep red variety, sometimes
with a brownish cast, but it is commonly found in orangish brown shades,
and brilliant wine red shades as well. Other colors include orange, red
purple, violet, and pink. A non-transparent variety, grossularite, has
a jadelike appearance and may be mistaken for jade when cut for cabochons
or carved. There is also a star garnet found in the U.S. that is a reddish
to purple variety, which displays a faint four-rayed or six-rayed star.
© Jewelry & Gems,
The Buying Guide, Antoinette L. Matlins & A.C. Bonanno 1984
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Amethyst
- February Birthstone
Amethyst, a transparent
purple variety of quartz, is one of the most popular of the colored stones.
In contemporary times, recognized as the birthstone of February, it was
once believed to bring peace of mind to the wearer. It was also believed
to prevent the wearer from getting drunk, and if the circle of the sun
or moon was engraved thereon, it was believed to prevent death from poison.
Amethyst is available
in shades from light to dark purple, it is relatively hard, fairly brilliant,
and overall a good versatile wearable stone. Amethyst is available in
good supply even in large sizes. Note that large sizes with deep color
are becoming scarcer. Amethyst is probably one of the most beautiful stones
available at a moderate price, although one must be careful because "fine"
amethyst is being produced synthetically. Synthetic amethyst exhibits
color zoning often looking like chevrons.
Amethyst may fade
from heat and strong sunshine. Guard your amethyst from these conditions
and it will retain its color indefinitely.
© Jewelry & Gems,
The Buying Guide, Antoinette L. Matlins & A.C. Bonanno 1984
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Aquamarine
or Bloodstone
March Birthstone
To dream of aquamarine
signifies the making of new friends and to wear aquamarine earrings brings
love and affection. Aquamarine, a universal symbol of youth, hope, and
health, blesses those born in March. Prior to the 15th century it was
thought to be the birthstone for those born in October.
Aquamarine is a member
of the beryl family, which includes emerald, but aquamarine is less brittle
and more durable than emerald. Aquamarine ranges in color from light blue
to bluish green to deep blue, which is the most valuable and desirable
color. Do not purchase a shallow cut stone, since the color will become
paler as dirt accumulates on the back. Aquamarine is a very wearable gem,
clear and brilliant, and, unlike emerald, is available with excellent
clarity even in very large sizes. Larger size aquamarines are becoming
scarcer, therefore more valuable. Long considered a beautiful and moderately
priced gem, aquamarine has moved into the "expensive" classification for
stones in larger sizes with a good deep blue color.
One must be careful
not to mistake blue topaz for aquamarine. While topaz is an equally beautiful
gem, it is usually much less expensive. Topaz is usually treated to obtain
its desirable color. For those that cannot afford an aquamarine, blue
topaz is an excellent alternative, as long as it is properly presented
and properly priced.
© Jewelry & Gems,
The Buying Guide, Antoinette L. Matlins & A.C. Bonanno 1984
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Diamond
- April Birthstone
The diamond has been
one of the most coveted gems in history. Uncut diamonds adorned the suits
of armor of the great knights. Cut diamonds have adorned crowns of kings
and queens throughout the ages. Today the diamond is internationally recognized
as a symbol of love and betrothal and is the recipient of increasing interest
as a source of investment.
The diamond has been
credited with many magical powers. At one time it was considered the emblem
of fearlessness and invincibility. It was believed that the mere possession
of a diamond would endow the wearer with superior strength, bravery, and
courage. It is also believed to drive away the devil and all spirits of
the night.
In the 1500's it
was believed to enhance the love of a husband for his wife. In the Talmud
a gem believed to be a diamond, from its description, was worn by the
high rabbi and served to prove innocence or guilt. If the accused was
guilty, the stone grew dim, if innocent, the stone shone more brilliantly
than ever.
The Hindus classed
diamonds according to four castes. The Brahmin diamond, colorless, gave
power, friends, riches and good luck. The Kshatriya diamond, brown/champagne,
prevented old age. The Vaisya, color of the "kodali flower", brought success,
and the Sudra, a diamond with the sheen of a polished blade-probably gray
or black-brought all types of good fortune. Red and yellow diamonds were
exclusively royal gems, for kings alone.
Diamonds have been
associated with almost everything from producing sleepwalking to producing
invincibility and spiritual ecstasy. Even sexual power has been strongly
attributed to the diamond. There is one catch to all the associated powers;
one must find the diamond "naturally" in order to experience its magic,
for it loses its power if acquired by purchase. However, when offered
as a pledge of love or friendship, its powers may return, hence the use
in engagement rings given in love.
Diamond have been
found to occur naturally in almost every color and shade, blue, red, green,
yellow, lavender, pink, gunmetal blue, coffee brown, and black. The color
may be intense or very pale. These are very expensive because they are
very rare, some more than others are. The most common fancy colors are
shades of yellow, very intense, bright yellow called "canary", orange
and brown. Among the most rare and most valuable are the reds and blues,
and the least valuable are the black diamond.
© Jewelry & Gems,
The Buying Guide, Antoinette L. Matlins & A.C. Bonanno 1984
Emeralds have been
used for ornamentation since 4000 BC. The vibrant greens of Emeralds have
long been associated with fertility and rebirth. Many cultures have used
Emerald as treatment for eye diseases, epilepsy and poisoning. Emeralds
have been held under the tongue as a way of foretelling the future. Emeralds
were dedicated to the Goddess Venus and were considered an aid in revealing
the truthfulness of one's lover. But their incomparable beauty is reason
enough for owning the gem.
The first stones were
mined in Cleopatra's Mines in the Egyptian desert near the Red Sea. These
mines were abandoned after being worked for thousands of years. They were
rediscovered in 1818 and today the Egyptian Emerald lodes are small and
dark stones.
The top Emerald producing
countries are Columbia, Zambia, Brazil and Zimbabwe. Emerald deposits
are typically found in metamorphic rocks with no particular surface indications
for possible mining locations. Mining for the 6-sided Emerald crystal
is primarily done by hand.
Emeralds are part
of the Beryl mineral family, along with Aquamarine, Golden Beryl, Goshenite,
Bixbite and Morganite. The name for Emerald is taken from the Greek smaragdos,
meaning green stone. Inclusions are generally accepted in Emeralds. These
inclusions help to separate natural from synthetic Emeralds and possibly
the country of origin.
Although Emeralds
have a hardness of 8, they still must be treated with care to prevent
chipping. Emerald jewelry should never be ultrasonically cleaned nor steam
cleaned. Since most Emeralds exhibit some type of visible inclusion, the
degree of clarity is not as important as with other type of Beryl. Most
natural Emeralds have tiny surface breaks that fill with air and are visible
to the eye. For centuries, organic oils and resins have been used to prevent
these surface breaks from being visible. Since these oils have a tendency
to dry out over time, manmade substances, including epoxies, are now being
used to lessen the surface fissures. The best way to care for emerald
jewelry is to use warm, soapy water and a soft brush.
The top color for
Emerald is a deep, rich green. Emeralds are available in a range of green
tones, including yellowish green, bluish green and pure green. Emeralds
that are transparent in the top color command the highest prices.
© Jewelry & Gems,
The Buying Guide, Antoinette L. Matlins & A.C. Bonanno 1984
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The pearl, pure and
fair to the eye, has been recognized since the earliest times as the emblem
of modesty, chastity, and purity. There are two types of pearls available
today. The natural or Oriental pearl-the real "genuine pearl"-is considered
a precious gem, since they are relatively rare in nice sizes. Most commonly
found today is the cultured pearl from pearl farms. Pearls are produced
by oysters in saltwater and by mussels in freshwater lakes and rivers.
Quality and value
are determined by:
- Freedom from skin
blemishes (blisters, pimples, or spots)
- Roundness-the
more perfectly round the better
- Luster-the higher
the luster the better (known as Orient by some gemologists)
- Tint-rose-tinted
are highly desirable as are white and cream
- Size-natural pearls
are sold by weight measured in "grains" Cultured pearls are sold by
millimeters. The larger the pearl, the greater the cost. For example,
71/2 mm to 8 mm is considered large but 9 mm to 10mm is considered very
large both in size and price. The price jumps upward rapidly with each
millimeter once you pass 8 mm.
When all of these
factors come together in a set or stand of pearls, acquiring them may
be excessively costly, but you will have the finest available. If any
quality factor is lessened, the savings can be significant.
Pearls should be handled
with care. It is best to keep them in a separate pouch and to exercise
some caution when wearing to avoid contact with certain substances such
as vinegar (when making a salad), ammonia, inks, and certain perfumes,
since these can spot the pearls surface. Also frequent applications of
hair spray while wearing pearls will coat them and make them very dull,
but this coating can be cleaned by washing with nail polish remover.
Pearls are available
in many colors including gray, black, pink, and blue. Unfortunately, the
colors are often produced using surface dying techniques. A qualified
gemologist should be able to detect dyed pearls.
© Jewelry & Gems,
The Buying Guide, Antoinette L. Matlins & A.C. Bonanno 1984
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Ruby
- July Birthstone
Prized through the
ages, even by kings, as the "gem of gems...surpassing all other precious
stones in virtue," and today's birthstone for July, ruby is the red variety
of the mineral corundum. Historically, it has been symbolic of love and
passion, considered to be an aid to firm friendship, and believed to ensure
beauty. Its color ranges from purplish or bluish red to a yellowish red.
The finest color is a vivid, almost pure spectral red with a very faint
undertone of blue, as seen in Burmese rubies, which are considered the
finest. The ruby is a brilliant stone and is very hard, durable, and wearable.
Ruby make an unusually fine choice for any piece of jewelry.
Translucent varieties
of ruby are also seen, and one variety exhibits a six-ray star effect
when cut as a cabochon. This variety is called star ruby and is one of
natures most beautiful and interesting gifts to man.
© Jewelry & Gems,
The Buying Guide, Antoinette L. Matlins & A.C. Bonanno 1984
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Peridot
- August Birthstone
Today birthstone for
August, peridot, was also a favorite of the ancients. This lovely transparent
yellowish green to deep chartreuse stone was quite a powerful gem. It was
considered an aid to friendship and was also believed to free the mind of
envious thoughts. Because of the yellowish green color, it was also believed
to cure or prevent diseases of the liver and dropsy. And, if that were not
enough, if peridot was worn on the left arm it would protect the wearer
from the evil eye. It is also popular today, but probably more for its depth
of green color than its professed powers. While not particularly brilliant,
the richness of its color is exceptional. Peridot comes in shades of yellowish
green to darker, purer green colors. Peridot is widely available in small
sizes but larger sizes are becoming scarce, so prices for larger sizes are
now fairly high for good quality material. Some caution should also be exercised
when wearing peridot. It is not a very hard stone and may scratch easily.
Some stones may look like peridot-green sapphire and green tourmaline-and
may be mistaken for peridot or be misrepresented.
© Jewelry & Gems,
The Buying Guide, Antoinette L. Matlins & A.C. Bonanno 1984
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Sapphire
- September Birthstone
The sapphire is the
symbol of the heavens, bestower of innocence, truth, good health, and
preserver of chastity. Sapphire is part of the variety corundum. While
it is known best for the blue variety it is available in nature in almost
every color. The red variety of corundum is the ruby. The sapphire's hardness,
brilliance, and availability in so many beautiful colors make it an important
and versatile gemstone.
The finest sapphires
are considered to be the blue variety, specifically those from Burma and
Kashmir, which are the closest to the pure spectral blue. Many of the
current sapphires used in jewelry today are very dark but can be treated
to lighten the color for better beauty. Sapphires from Ceylon are mare
pastel looking than the deep rich color of Burmese and Kashmir sapphires.
Blue sapphires are
also mined in Australia, Tanzania, Brazil, Africa, and the U.S. in Montana
and North Carolina. Blue sapphires are found in a translucent variety
that may show a six-rayed star effect when cut in cabochon style. These
are known as star sapphires and there are numerous synthetic star sapphires
on the market. Fancy sapphires are becoming increasingly popular in colors
of yellow, pink and green.
© Jewelry & Gems,
The Buying Guide, Antoinette L. Matlins & A.C. Bonanno 1984
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Opal
- October Birthstone
The opal has suffered
from an unfortunate reputation as being an evil stone and bearing ill
omen. There are several explanations for the ominous superstitions surrounding
this wonderful gem, but the evil associations have never been merited
and probably resulted from a careless reading of Sir Walter Scott's Anne
of Geierstein.
Among the ancients,
opal was a symbol of fidelity and assurance, and in later history, it
became strongly associated with religious emotion and prayer. It was believed
to have strong therapeutic value for diseases of the eye, and when worn
as an amulet, it would make the wearer immune from all such diseases as
well as increase the powers of the eyes and the mind. Many believed that
to the extent the colors of red and green were seen, the therapeutic powers
of the stones with those colors-red and green-the powers were also to
be enjoyed by the wearer, the power to stop bleeding (ruby) and the power
to cure kidney disease (emerald). The black opal was particularly highly
prized as the luck stone of anyone lucky enough to own one.
This stone, whose
brilliant colors resemble the colors of the fall, is unique among the
gems, displaying an array of very brilliant miniature rainbow effects,
all mixed up together. This is opal's most distinctive characteristic.
This effect is created by opal's formation process, which is very different
from that of other gems. Opal is composed of hydrated silica spheres.
The mini rainbows seen in most opals result from light interference created
by these spheres. The arrangement of the spheres, which vary in size and
pattern, is responsible for the different colors seen.
Opal is usually cut
flat or in cabochon since there is no additional brilliance to be captured
by a good faceting job. Color is everything. The more brilliant the color,
the more valuable the gem. This is probably truer of opal than any other
stone. The more beautiful the stone and its color, the more it will cost.
The finest of all
opals is the black opal. Black opals are usually a deep gray or grayish
black with flashes of incredibly brilliant color dancing around within
and about the stone as it is turned. One must be careful when purchasing
a black opal; to ensure it is not a doublet or triplet, a stone composed
of two or three pieces of stone glued together. There are many such doublet
and triplets in the market because of the black opal's rarity, beauty,
and extremely high cost. A natural black opal the size of a lima bean
could cost as much as $50,000 in today's market. The black opal doublet
and triplet provides an affordable alternative to the one who loves them
but can not afford them. Beware, this also presents an opportunity for
misrepresentation that can be very costly to the consumer.
Generally speaking,
the purity of color, absence of dead spots, called trueness, flawlessness,
and intensity or brilliance of color are the primary variables affecting
value. Those opals with an abundance of red are usually the most expensive,
and those strong in blue and green are equally beautiful but not as rare,
so their prices are somewhat less. Some opals are very transparent and
are classified as "jelly", "semi-jelly", or "water" opals.
One word of caution
must be offered. Opals require special care because some tend to dry out
and crack. Avoid exposure to anything that is potentially drying. Bathing
an opal occasionally in olive oil or coating it with olive oil when not
in use will help preserve it. But do not soak any opal in oil because
soaking some opals for only a few hours can cause them to lose some or
nearly all of their fire.
© Jewelry & Gems,
The Buying Guide, Antoinette L. Matlins & A.C. Bonanno 1984
Return to Birthstones
Topaz
- November Birthstone
True topaz, the symbol
of love and affection, aid to sweetness of disposition and birthstone
on November, is one of natures most wonderful and least known families.
The true topaz is rarely seen in jewelry stores. Most people know only
the quartz (citrine) topaz, or glass. In the past almost any yellow stone
was called topaz.
Topaz occurs not only
in the transparent yellow, yellow brown, orange brown, and pinky brown,
but also in a very light to medium red, very light to light blue, very
light green, light greenish yellow, and colorless. Topaz is a hard, brilliant
stone with a fine color range.
Blue topaz has become
popular in recent years and most of it is treated for color. Blue topaz
closely resembles the finest aquamarine and offers a very attractive affordable
alternative to aquamarine. Some of the fine, deeper blue treated topazes
have been found to be radioactive, and according to the Nuclear Regulatory
Commission, may be injurious to the wearer. The true topaz family offers
a variety of color options in lovely, clear, brilliant, and durable stones.
© Jewelry & Gems,
The Buying Guide, Antoinette L. Matlins & A.C. Bonanno 1984
Return to Birthstones
Turquoise
or Zircon - December Birthstone

A birthstone for December,
and ranking highest among all the opaque stones, turquoise, the "Turkish
stone" is highly prized throughout Asia and Africa, not only for its particular
hue of blue, a robins-egg blue or sky blue, but more importantly for its
prophylactic and therapeutic qualities. The Arabs consider it a lucky
stone and have great confidence in its benevolent action. Used in rings,
earrings, necklaces, head ornaments and amulets, it protects the wearer
from poison, reptile bites, eye diseases and the evil eye. It was also
believed capable of warning of impending death by changing color. Also,
the drinking water in which turquoise has been dipped or washed was believed
to cure bladder ailments. Buddhists revere the turquoise because it is
associated with the legend in which a turquoise enabled Budda to destroy
a monster. Even today, turquoise is considered a symbol of courage, success,
and love. It has long been associated with American Indian jewelry and
art.
Turquoise is an opaque,
light to dark blue or blue green stone. The finest color is an intense
blue, with poorer qualities tending toward yellowish green. The famous
Persian turquoise, which can be a very pleasing and intense blue, is considered
a very rare and valuable gem.
All turquoises are
susceptible to aging and may turn greenish or possibly darker with age.
Care must be taken when wearing turquoise, both to avoid contact with
soap, grease, and other materials that may discolor it, and protect it
from abuse, since turquoise scratches fairly easily.
Exercise caution when
buying turquoise. This is a frequently simulated gem. Very fine adulterated
stones and reconstructed stones saturate the market, as does synthetic
turquoise.
Zircon is a stone of purity and innocence.
It balances the emotions and enhances self esteem and unity. Was used as an amulet by
travellers to protect against accident and injury on the journey. It was also used to stop the
wearer from being stuck by lightening. Hindu poets tell of the Kalpa Tree, the ultimate gift to
the gods, which was a glowing tree covered with gemstone fruit with leaves of zircon. Zircon
has long had a supporting role to more well-known gemstones, often stepping in as an
understudy when they were unavailable. In the middle ages, zircon was said to aid sleep,
bring prosperity, and promote honor and wisdom in its owner. The name probably comes
from the Persian word zargun which means gold-colored, although zircon comes in a wide
range of different colors.
© Jewelry & Gems,
The Buying Guide, Antoinette L. Matlins & A.C. Bonanno 1984
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